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**SO•Audiojack** · 2016-10-28, 11:18

(2016-10-28 11:07)Nathan Wrote:
(2016-10-28 10:54)Audiojack Wrote:
(2016-10-28 10:01)Nathan Wrote: i.e. can you fit the half shafts after the hubs are on, obviously should need to remove wheels to tighten the drive shaft bolt

You don't actually need to remove anything to install the half shafts, you'll just have to undo the center bolt holding the brake assembly/hub on. The half shafts were the second to last thing I installed, right before the exhaust.

I wanted to test the engine running without having it connected to the wheels, because I just wanted to make sure it won't run off on me if I had the gear linkage untightened or something.

(2016-10-28 10:49)Nathan Wrote: not sure i just jacked it up straight away..

Its a shame you cant refurb parts prior to fitting them or can you ?

You can for example take an assembled engine to the garage and they will fix it for you, you don't have to take the full car.

I meant making the parts look as new is that possible?

Id rather build the engine is the block goosed from the start?
does it need honed? or machined

The parts will look as they are, they're all fine. Everything in your garage is in as good a condition as they'll be.
But you can ruin the engine and then the garage will need to repair the block damage etc.

**[TC] Nathan** · (This post was last modified: 2016-10-28 11:28 by Nathan.)

Ahh, makes sense.

Bar the clutch and brake lines is there anything else i should fit prior to the engine/gearbox assembly

i.e. things i cannot access with the engine in place

obviously subframe first

**SO•Audiojack** · 2016-10-28, 11:30

(2016-10-28 11:25)Nathan Wrote: Ahh, makes sense.

Bar the clutch and brake lines is there anything else i should fit prior to the engine/gearbox assembly

i.e. things i cannot access with the engine in place

obviously subframe first

I'm pretty sure you can do pretty much everything with the engine already in. Some parts will just be easier to access if it isn't in, but a generous use of the "reach" button will help. W00t

I had forgotten to tighten some brake lines originally and it was a bit difficult to get to them.

**[TC]►Carl◄** · 2016-10-28, 13:52

how does the fan belt go on? I've got my alternator on and all the pulleys (alternator is loose in case it won't let me put it on if it's tight).

Bought the fan belt from the store but I can't get it out of the packaging lmao.

**[TC-R] Sam** · (This post was last modified: 2016-10-28 15:12 by Sam.)

Any idea how to stop coolant spraying out the top of the radiator? all pipes are connected, coolant is full, radiator is tightened in, also still drinking fuel.

**[TC]►Bez◄** · 2016-10-28, 15:30

(2016-10-28 15:10)Sam Wrote: Any idea how to stop coolant spraying out the top of the radiator? all pipes are connected, coolant is full, radiator is tightened in, also still drinking fuel.

Coolant spraying - Don't let the temp gauge go too high maybe? The only time I've had it spray out like that is if I have engine damage or the temps shoot up. You might need to take it to the mechanic and get him to check the engine.

Drinking fuel - A trip to the shop and back will take about 1/4 of fuel, so if you're is using more then you must have a leak somewhere lol.

**[TC-R] Sam** · 2016-10-28, 16:11

I haven't ever driven the car out of the house area, only pulled it into the garage to get it running right, it was just sat idling for five minuets and then I revved it for maybe 10-15 seconds at most whilst turning it to see if it was running better and it just sprays everywhere

I must have a leak, it used half a tank in under 10 mins sat idling

**[TC] Nathan** · 2016-10-28, 16:14

Did you fit the radiator caplease? If there is one

**[TC-R] Sam** · (This post was last modified: 2016-10-28 16:22 by Sam.)

Double checked that, took the whole cooling system off and shoved it back on and refilled the coolant and was still doing the same

I don't even think it will make it to the mechanics with half a tank, even then it will over heat before I get to the place haha, and I don't have the money saved up to pay the guy

Edit: maybe it's the fan belt not being adjusted correctly? That's the only part I've not checked

**[TC] Nathan** · 2016-10-28, 16:28

do you need to bleed the radiator?

i just died trying to drive to shop lol

**SO•Audiojack** · 2016-10-28, 16:36

The engine will overheat if the mixture is too lean. And no, you don't need to bleed any of the fluids.

**[TC-R] Sam** · 2016-10-28, 16:38

I'm guessing it's to do with the mixture, do I need to scroll up or down to make it richer?

**[TC] Nathan** · (This post was last modified: 2016-10-28 16:49 by Nathan.)

The way forward

I wonder if you can bolt the engine onto the subframe and drop the car onto it

**SO•Audiojack** · 2016-10-28, 19:44

First drive with the Satsuma. Wanted to buy the extra gauges before even testing it, and to set up the proper stoichiometric fuel mixture. After refueling the car I went to have a celebratory beer in the pub, which just opened.

[Image: eGf5XpA.jpg]

**[TC-R] Sam** · 2016-10-28, 19:58

So I've solved the fuel problem, but still over heating, do the coolant pipes need to be tightened up? Went over with them with every spanner but none seem to fit

**SO•Audiojack** · 2016-10-28, 19:59

(2016-10-28 19:58)Sam Wrote: So I've solved the fuel problem, but still over heating, do the coolant pipes need to be tightened up? Went over with them with every spanner but none seem to fit

No they don't have anything to tighten... Do you still have coolant filled after it sprayed out? Biggrin

**[TC-R] Sam** · 2016-10-28, 20:06

Yeah its all topped up

**[TC] Nathan** · 2016-10-28, 20:18

try screwdriver.. normally jubilee clips

**SO•Audiojack** · 2016-10-28, 20:19

(2016-10-28 20:18)Nathan Wrote: try screwdriver.. normally jubilee clips

No, it doesn't need any tightening... Because I didn't and it hasn't leaked W00t

**[TC]►Carl◄** · 2016-10-29, 00:45

Getting wavy in the pub before I started a new life.
[Image: 50f81b8f779dd944317fd0d6bdf5ee91.png]