My bike wont start - what to do?

[Cola]

This is what the old sparkplug looked like:

[ChrisM]

Plug looks fine. I'm guessing you've tried all the silly things, neutral, stand, killswith etc. You said you had no handlebars, any other damage on the bike? Maybe try charging the battery fully too.

[[TC] Stephen]

How long ago was the old plug installed? That doesn't look like its even been used..

[[TC]►Leon◄]

(2014-01-11 10:15)Stephen Wrote:  How long ago was the old plug installed? That doesn't look like its even been used..

That's actually what they're suppose to look like when air/fuel mixture and ignition timing are adjusted properly.

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Diesel staaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaart, Cola. Wai u no du dis?

[Cola]

(2014-01-11 10:00)ChrisM Wrote:  Plug looks fine. I'm guessing you've tried all the silly things, neutral, stand, killswith etc. You said you had no handlebars, any other damage on the bike? Maybe try charging the battery fully too.

Yup, all the silly things:
It's got no killswitch, so that's out.
The bike is in neutral
I've tried getting on the bike and having it off the stand (although that shouldn't change anything when it's in neutral anyway)

(2014-01-11 10:15)Stephen Wrote:  How long ago was the old plug installed? That doesn't look like its even been used..

At 15500 kms, it recieved its last service, so that's only 2500kms ago. Next service is scheduled at 20000 kms, where it'll have fresh oil, a new airfilter and a new spark plug (I'll keep using my 'old' one for now, and the new one is just gonna stay in its box until then).

(2014-01-11 10:19)Leon Wrote:  

(2014-01-11 10:15)Stephen Wrote:  How long ago was the old plug installed? That doesn't look like its even been used..

That's actually what they're suppose to look like when air/fuel mixture and ignition timing are adjusted properly.

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Diesel staaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaart, Cola. Wai u no du dis?

I'll try that after having checked the airfilter I think.


Also, as soon as I get my new handlebars, I'll have my dad push the bike to a start, and see if that'l work.

[ChrisM]

If you can, while you wait for your bars, charge the battery fully. That will rule out a weak spark.

Leads me to think its the fuel pump or maybe a faulty oxygen sensor (should be connected somewhere along the exhaust). Could be flooded. Try starting the bike with throttle open to get more air into the cylinders. Other than that, it would have to be something you're going to need a mechanic to look at. I'm guessing "Diesel start" that Leon is talking about is the same as that easy start spray?
*Can you hear any noise from the fuel pump? Maybe disconnect your lights if you are going to keep trying to start the bike, as that will drain your battery pretty quickly. Got myself a 94 RVF400 as a bit of a project and this was 1 of the 1st lessons I learned, batteries aren't cheap lol.

[Cola]

Yeah, that might be it as well. But it sounds completely normal when I turn the key to ignition. I hear the 2-3 second buzzing sound from the fuel pump, which should afaik outrule that being broken as a factor.

My mates keep telling me diesel start, easy start spray, ether, whatever, and that should make it go. I don't have any of those atm, so I'll wait until I've tried pushing the bike to a start when I get the new handlebars.

I checked the airfilter just now, and it looked like brand new. No dirt or anything around it or in it. Nothing above or beneath it either. Looked totally clean.

[SO•Audiojack]

I doubt the oxygen sensor is responsible for not starting. The ECU runs in open loop mode until the engine is warm enough and doesn't use sensory data to control the mixture until that point.

Of course one thing to check is the engine temperature sensor, if it's broken it might output the maximum value (usually 255 celsius due to programming limitations) which leads to the ECU thinking the engine is (very ) warm. When the engine is cold it might not start if the ignition timing isn't corrected and the mixture enriched.

This knowledge comes from the car world but I doubt the engine management for modern bikes is that different. They're all 4-stroke fuel injected machines nonetheless.

[[TC] Viper]

When my old Kawasaki GPZ 500 didn't start it turned out to be a faulty starter relay motor and a weak battery. Also it froze over one time, which stopped cables from moving which stopped it from starting in the winter of 2010.

Since you have fuel injection, i take it you have to pull the clutch in before you can start the engine?

Sometimes kickstand sensors can stop a bike from starting, but i doubt this is the case with your bike as you can hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key.

I'll wait and see how you get on bump starting your bike when you get your new bars mounted.

[Cola]

Got it running again. Apparently some small wires needed to be connected to some small connectors near the clutch lever.

Now I just gotta figure out how to get the bike straight again. Tried replacing the handlebars with no luck = not good = expensive. :/

[ChrisM]

whats bent?

[[TC]►Leon◄]

(2014-01-11 11:01)Cola Wrote:  It's got no killswitch, so that's out.

(2014-01-15 21:12)Cola Wrote:  Got it running again. Apparently some small wires needed to be connected to some small connectors near the clutch lever.

Lulz.

Quote:Now I just gotta figure out how to get the bike straight again. Tried replacing the handlebars with no luck = not good = expensive. :/

You sure the fork hasn't twisted? Tends to happen when they tip over.

Warning: Danish.

Spoiler (Click to View)

Meget ofte når dersens 2 hjulere vælter, bliver forgaflen vredet skæv. Stil dig foran den og hav forhjulet imellem benene. Hvis styret drejer mens du holder hjulet ligeud er det med garanti det der er sket. Prøv det og vend tilbage.

[Cola]

(2014-01-16 06:55)ChrisM Wrote:  whats bent?

I've got no idea, not the handlebars, that's what I know now.

(2014-01-16 12:56)Leon Wrote:  

(2014-01-11 11:01)Cola Wrote:  It's got no killswitch, so that's out.

(2014-01-15 21:12)Cola Wrote:  Got it running again. Apparently some small wires needed to be connected to some small connectors near the clutch lever.

Lulz.

Quote:Now I just gotta figure out how to get the bike straight again. Tried replacing the handlebars with no luck = not good = expensive. :/

You sure the fork hasn't twisted? Tends to happen when they tip over.

Warning: Danish.

Spoiler (Click to View)

Meget ofte når dersens 2 hjulere vælter, bliver forgaflen vredet skæv. Stil dig foran den og hav forhjulet imellem benene. Hvis styret drejer mens du holder hjulet ligeud er det med garanti det der er sket. Prøv det og vend tilbage.

Thanks, I'll go give it a try, I think we should continue the Danish in the PM's, ok with you?

[[TC]►Leon◄]

Sure.

[bullet]

I believe it is the Fork then. The thing that holds the two dampers.

[Cola]

Weird thing is, I cannot seem to see anything that looks unusual on the forks/suspension thingys
I've read a few things about it, and it seems that loosening some of the stuff, and tightening it again should do the trick.

[bullet]

(2014-01-16 17:40)Cola Wrote:  Weird thing is, I cannot seem to see anything that looks unusual on the forks/suspension thingys
I've read a few things about it, and it seems that loosening some of the stuff, and tightening it again should do the trick.

*could do the trick

The fork bridge might be bent. You can get it off and lay it on a flat surface. Where the dampers go in, it should completely rest on the surface, if you know what I mean.

fork bridge:

[Cola]

Okay. Leon said that I could try loosening the pinch bolts, which I'll try later when I'm home. If that won't do it either, I'm gonna see if I can get the fork bridge off by myself, or if I'm going to have a mechanic do it.

[[TC]►Leon◄]

I'm almost 100% certain the the bridge won't be bent, as it would most likely have a completely different result.

[ChrisM]

Check your head bearings and headstem.